17. Can I test my FICM to ensure that it is the culprit?

If you aren't actually getting any codes, but would like to see if your FICM is the problem, you can easily test it for the most common of issues - low output voltage. In fact, we encourage that all of our customers test their FICM's if it all possible just to be sure that it is indeed the cause of the issue they are experiencing.  Note, though, that just because a FICM is outputting proper voltage, does not mean that it is good.  If you are not getting injector 'clatter' with the key on and engine off, this is yet another possible symptom of a bad FICM.  If you need further assistance with troubleshooting, find us on Facebook Messenger through our Facebook page or give us a call at 515-897-4459.

If you have a ScanGauge II/III (of course available pre-programmed from us!), Edge Insight CTS/CTS2/CTS3, or any number of the SCT devices (x4, Livewire TS, etc), you can directly determine the voltage of your module through it. Other monitoring tools also allow this functionality, so it may make sense to look. If you have a ScanGauge that you didn't get from us and are curious on how to program it to grab FICM data, see the near end of this page.

If you don't have a monitoring tool, consider getting one as they are incredibly powerful little money savers that can alert you to issues before they leave you stranded, but for now read on...

To get the clearance necessary for testing manually, you will have to disconnect the two 3/8" coolant lines on the degas bottle, remove the two bolts holding it to the firewall, and pull the degas bottle off to the driver side of the vehicle.  Be careful not to crack the bottom of the reservoir and feel free to drain some coolant and remove the reservoir entirely if that is a concern of yours.  Also, please remember that when testing, engine cranking is necessary.  As such, the water pump will be pumping coolant.  Take care to not let coolant into the now-open FICM!  

After the degas bottle is out of the way, you'll see a small rectangular plate held on with two T20 torx screws on the top of the FICM. Remove these and you'll see four or seven screws, depending on your model.

For Four Screw Models - place your volt meter's positive lead on the screw closest to the driver's side of the vehicle - BE EXTREMELY CAREFUL NOT TO LET THIS LEAD SHORT OUT TO THE CASE. Place the meter's negative side lead on the negative terminal on one of the batteries. To prevent the lead from touching the case, many wrap all but the lead tips in electrical tape.

For Seven Screw Models - place your volt meter's positive lead on the screw closest to the PASSENGER side of the vehicle in the row with four screws - BE EXTREMELY CAREFUL NOT TO LET THIS LEAD SHORT OUT TO THE CASE. Place the meter's negative side lead on the negative terminal on one of the batteries. 

Please do not concern yourself with the voltage on the other screws.  You only care about the voltage on the one specific to your style of FICM. 

You are looking for anything above 45 volts (48 is ideal) with the key in the on position and for this voltage to not drop during cranking and running.

If your voltage is lower than 45, repair is needed. If you show zero volts out of the FICM, check your FICM fuse - it is a 50amp maxifuse typically located in the panel behind the driver's left knee in (typically) position 103 for 2005 and older trucks.  In 2006 and 2007 F-Series trucks, look for a 30 amp maxifuse in the fuse box to the driver side of the master cylinder under the hood.

If your voltage DOESN'T drop below 45 and you want a more difficult stress test on your module, look for less than 45 volts in the morning when the engine is completely cold. You are looking to test the voltage during the following events:

1. Key off (0 volts)
2. Key on during buzz test (48 volts)
3. Key on after buzz test (48 volts)
4. Cranking (48 volts)
5. Running IMMEDIATELY after cold start and for the first minute (48 volts)
6. RPM's at 2000 after it's been started for a minute (48 volts)

Again, if the voltage drops below 45, even for a second, during any of these tests, the FICM needs repair.

Of course, it's materially easier to review these voltages with a monitor like the ScanGauge II, ScanGauge III,  or, even better, the Edge Insight CTS3.