- AUTOMOTIVE REPAIR SERVICES
- EXCHANGE REPAIR PROGRAM
- SEND YOUR MODULE IN FOR REPAIR
FAQ & TIPS
- FAQ & TIPS
- 1. WATCH THOSE BATTERIES & GROUNDS!
- 2. GET A BETTER ALTERNATOR.
- 3. UPGRADE YOUR ALTERNATOR WIRING.
- 4. GET GAUGES
- 5. BACKFLUSH THE OIL COOLER - LOSE THE FORD GOLD COOLANT.
- 6. INSTALL A COOLANT FILTER
- 7. MONITOR YOUR EGTS SPECIFICALLY
- 8. USE 10W30 SYNTHETIC
- 9. GET THE BLUE SPRING KIT AND SAVE YOUR INJECTORS
- 10. INSTALL A FUEL PRESSURE GAUGE.
- 11. GET SAFE WHEN TOWING.
- 12. GET A MORE FREE FLOWING EXHAUST.
- 13. EXERCISE THOSE VARIABLE VEINS IN THE TURBO.
- 14. INSTALL A BYPASS OIL FILTRATION KIT.
- 15. REMOVE AND CLEAN THE FUEL PUMP.
- 16. CLEAN THE OIL SIDE OF THE INJECTORS.
- 17. CLEAN THE FUEL SIDE OF THE INJECTORS.
- 18. CLEAN UP THE EGR VALVE.
- 19. CLEAN THE EXHAUST GAS BACKPRESSURE SENSOR AND THE TUBE THAT FEEDS IT TO PREVENT A NO-START
- 20. UPGRADE YOUR TURBO OIL DRAIN TUBE AND OIL SUPPLY LINES.
- 21. RE-ROUTE YOUR CRANKCASE VENTILATION (CCV) LINE.
- 22. UPGRADE YOUR TRANSMISSION
- FAQ & TIPS
- ALTERNATORS & ALTERNATOR WIRING & STARTERS
- ASHEVILLE ENGINE
- BATTERIES AND BATTERY CHARGERS
- BRAKES, ROTORS, BRAKE CONTROLLERS
- CHEVY DURAMAX PARTS
- CUMMINS/MOPAR PARTS
- FICM PARTS
- FLUID FILM
- FORD PARTS
- MONITORS, TUNERS AND TUNES
- TOOLS / LOANER TOOLS
PERFORMANCE AND MECHANICAL UPGRADES
- COMP CAMS
- ENGINE UPGRADE PACKAGES
- POWERSTROKE PRODUCTS
- BODY PARTS
- 6.7L FORD POWERSTROKE DISASTER PREVENTION KIT
- FLEECE PERFORMANCE ENGINEERING
- HEADLIGHTS & MIRRORS
- HOLDERS DIESEL
- KILL DEVIL DIESEL
- NO LIMIT DIESEL
- REDHEAD STEERING GEARS
- TONNEAU COVERS / TOOL BOXES
- YUKON GEAR & AXLE
- RIFFRAFF DIESEL PERFORMANCE
- AIR CONDITIONING
- AFE POWER
- OIL FILTRATION & CAPS
- ARP BOLT KITS & FEL-PRO GASKETS
- BD DIESEL
- COOLING SYSTEM
- FUEL AND FUEL DELIVERY
- HIGH PRESSURE OIL
- INTAKES & WATER METH INJECTION
- IPR RESEARCH
- SUSPENSION, STEERING, & MOUNTS
- WARREN DIESEL
- WHY CHOOSE US
- CONTACT US
Send Your Module In for Repair
REPAIR PROGRAM DETAILS
If you can afford a little down time, send your FICM in for a quick repair. We'll help you get solid FICM back in your truck asap.
How it works:
1) Print off our intake form here.
2) Fill out the form
3) Ship your module to us along with the completed form
4) Payment: See the "payment" section below
Pricing for various services, tunes, module repairs is shown on the intake form. FICM repair pricing ranges from $399 to $749 depending on what you want done -
Check out the following links for more information:
4337 N Callison Ave.
PO Box 173
Cumming, IA 50061
** Note that the Intake Form form can also be used to send in your ECM, PCM, and even GEM modules for service!
- Payment is most easily and cost effectively handled by just enclosing a check or money order in the box with your module made payable to FICMrepair.com. Payment can also be made via credit card (Visa, Mastercard, Discover and American Express accepted) over the phone once your module has been evaluated.
FICM Repair Turnaround:
- We repair modules the day that they are received, the next day at the very latest, and get them back out in the mail the very next day. Note that shipments sent UPS are not typically received until after our techs are gone for the day. These modules will receive priority the next business day, but are treated as if they came in the next business morning. Units spend 1-3 days in the shop plus shipping, you are generally looking at about a week to a week and a half of down time.
- When you receive the module, you install it in your truck, turn the key, and are in business once again. None of our work impacts the programming on your FICM. Of course, if you elect to have a custom Power Hungry Performance tune installed, your module will be upgraded with that, but your ability to just install the module and turn the key remains! See our FAQ page for more information on the programming options that could net you up to THREE MILES TO THE GALLON better fuel economy!!
Inbound Shipment Notification:
- There is no need to notify us that you are sending your FICM in for repair. Just drop it in a box with the intake form and payment, and we'll do the rest!
Previously worked on FICM modules:
- While we will repair previously worked on modules sent in for repair, we charge an additional $50 bench fee to assess and ultimately clean up the damage caused by other's soldering and component replacing attempts, taking extra time to ensure that neighboring components haven't been heat-damaged in the prior repair process. There are no exceptions to this policy on modules sent in for repair given the time it takes for this additional testing.
Backlogs and Service Order:
- We have nearly always met our service promise of working on FICM modules the day that they are received and thus have been able to ship them back out the next business day. On those days that we cannot do this due to the volume received, modules asking for Express Mail return on our intake form will be worked on first, followed by modules asking for Priority Mail return. - For ECM/PCM/GEM/INSTRUMENT CLUSTER repairs, repair service times average right at two weeks. Given the wide variety of modules/components and their internal parts, this timeframe can flex, but a 2 week timeframe is typical.
- Payment must be received within 30 days of module being received for repair. If payment is not remitted within 30 days of the module being received for repair, a monthly storage fee of $50/month will be assessed per the below fee schedule. If payment is not received within 90 days, the module will be considered abandoned and will become the property of FICMRepair.com in lieu of payment for the monthly storage fees.
- 0 - 30 days - No Storage Fee
- 31 - 60 days - $50 Storage Fee
- 61 - 90 days - $100 Storage Fee
- After 90 days - Abandoned Module
** NOTE: If you have an earlier model truck ('03 or early '04) that has grommets and bushings in the mounting ears of the module, please remove them prior to sending us your unit as we cannot be responsible for them.
Please ensure that you complete a separate intake form for each module sent in to avoid repair delays.
Pack Carefully: It's critical that you place bubble wrap (much preferred) or some other cushioning material around the module, paying special attention to protecting the connectors. A piece of cardboard or extra layer of bubble wrap taped over the connectors is an excellent means of providing additional connector protection. You know you have enough packing in with the module when it can no longer move around inside the box.
USPS Priority Mail is available for $25. USPS Express mail shipment is available for $75 (note that while Express Mail is overnight to MOST zip codes, it is TWO DAY service to some. If you absolutely NEED overnight service, please consider our exchange program. If you really want your module back, though, we understand. Contact us so that we can look up your mailing address' expected delivery time frame via Express Mail service and make arrangements with you to ship via another carrier as necessary. UPS and FedEx overnight shipments typically run in the $80-$130 range and perhaps higher for shipments requiring Saturday delivery. Modules received via UPS may have an additional day delay due to inconsistent delivery times that often result in package receipt after our techs leave for the day.
FICMs nearly never die. They are nearly always killed. Do yourself a favor and get your batteries and alternator tested.
Battery testing: Remove the batteries and have them load tested on a bench. Battery bench testing must be done after batteries have been disconnected and sitting for 12 hours to allow their capacities to stabilize. Batteries must pass a bench test above 700 CCA in the warmer southern climates and must pass a bench test above 800 CCA in the colder northern climates.
Alternator testing: Alternators fail when hot. In these trucks, it is nearly always the voltage regulator that goes out due to the fact that they are undersized. Typical failure is between about 120,000 and 160,000 miles (about 190,000 to 260,000 km). Frequently, there is no warning or indication of failure. As regulators fail when hot, pull the alternator(s) and replicate under hood temperatures on a hot summer day by sticking the alternator in an oven at about 225°F (about 105°C) for an hour. Pull the alternator out of the oven with some gloves or shop towels and then immediately take it/them to an auto parts store to be tested. For a valid test, the alternator must be uncomfortably warm to the touch during the test. If you want to get a properly sized alternator to just start over, click here.
Your alternator(s) must be fully functional and your batteries must measure more than 13.3 volts when the truck is at full operating temperature with all the accessories on (high beams, blower motor, radio, heated seats if you have them, etc) to retain your warranty.
Failure to bench test the batteries and alternator(s) will result in voiding the FICM warranty.
Circuit high codes are nearly always indicative of a shot alternator or bad harness. Circuit low codes are nearly always caused by weak/inadequate alternators and batteries. The lowest end alternator we carry puts out at idle what the factory unit does at its peak! Check out our alternators and order yours today!
It could also be a FICM relay issue - most report it as being stamped with the 'engineering' part number F80B-14B192-AA - next to this 10 amp fuse near the drivers side hood hinge. Read more about the FICM Relay.
If you are working on the high pressure oil system (dummy plugs, standpipes, HPOPs, injectors, etc) as part of this exchange or in the future, remember to *always* hook up a battery charger and remove the FICM relay prior to using the key to engage the starter to purge the air. Engage the starter in 10-15 second intervals with at least 45 seconds in between engagements to avoid killing your starter. After you have seen the 500 psi necessary of injection control pressure, allow the batteries to regain their charge, crank once more for 10-15 seconds, re-install the FICM relay, and start the truck as normal. This will save your FICM from certain stress and possible death.
Some talk about using the remote starter engagement wire on the passenger side fender well for this purpose. While this can work, note that it does not send voltage to the Injection Pressure Regulator Valve this way. The result? Needless extra starter engagement time as a good bit of the oil pumped by your high pressure oil pump will be sent right back to the oil pan instead of to the oil rail.